Leather and double faced wool, for ‘winter is coming’

I saw this amazing double faced wool when it first showed up at Tessuti Fabrics, probably at the end of last year. It is pale blue on one side and charcoal on the other, and the perfect weight for making a snuggly winter jacket. Unfortunately, I wasn’t in the market for winter gear back then, so I had to walk away empty handed. But a few months ago I was lucky enough to recieve a gift card from my Mum (best gift ever!) and I spent it happily on this beautiful wool.

 


 

I made the coat using a Japanese pattern that I’ve used before (in my pre-blogging days). I purchased it, and all the other Japanese pattern books I own, from a very reliable Ebay seller, Pomadour24. I cut a size L and made several modifications. In the photos below, I’ve placed the original pattern pieces on top of my re-drafted pieces to better explain my changes.

  • I widened the sleeves a LOT. To do this, I slashed through the centre and created a wedge. I also shortened the sleeves so I could add cuffs, yet still achieve a shorter length.
Sleeves
  • I added cuffs with leather inserts. The leather I used in this coat was leftover from my leather shorts and leggings. Because I was working with scraps, I had to be creative with how I used it. The total length of my cuffs (including the leather insert) is 3.375″. The cuffs are folded over before attaching, minus a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Cuffs
  • The coat is a raglan cut. I lengthened the front piece by 28″ on the side seam and by about 16″ on the front. I should have extended the facing a little longer at the edge since this folds over. I need to adjust the pattern for this next time.
Front piece with self-facing

  • I lengthened the back by 32″. The photos show how I changed the hem shape.
Back piece
  • I sharpened the corners of the collar. This is a very subtle change to the original pattern but it actually impacts the look quite significantly. Notice the very comprehensive details I write on my own pattern pieces (I jest!). I really need to work on this!
Collar
  • I ditched the original pockets. They were actually quite useless in the first version. They looked good but they were placed too high on the side seams, making it awkward and fiddly to use them in real life. I drafted my own welt pockets and stuck them on the diagonal, using leftover leather as a contrast. I also ditched the buttons and used some little leather fasteners instead.
 
I’m pretty sure I’m going to love this jacket. It is super comfortable. It’s not too heavy and it looks fab with my leather blocked leggings. I can also pair my leather armbands (blogged here) with it if I don’t fancy wearing a long sleeved top on cold days.
 
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16 thoughts on “Leather and double faced wool, for ‘winter is coming’

  1. That is amazing Debbie! What a gorgeous coat. I love how you adjust patterns to get what you want – something I need to have a stab at. Enjoy wearing it – you look fantastic.

  2. Oh Wow! Do I love this coat! It’s one of the best things I’ve ever seen in Blogland! You made excellent use of this double sided fabric. I love the two colours together. Beautiful!! I’m so glad you left me a comment so that I could discover your blog. Love your style. I’ll be following your stuff from now on!

  3. Wow!! Gorgeous! This is everything I love in a winter coat – cocoon-y shape, raglan sleeves, leather accents, delicious wool! Just lovely! And how brilliant that you have those leather arm warmers! Perfect pairing!

  4. omg what? I’m so used to seeing you in whites, pinks, yellows and other fabulous colours that I was a little bit thrown by these pictures! haha, not at all in a bad way of course πŸ™‚ It looks like the kind of thing that makes you feel quite dramatic as you walk down the street – and I love it. Great proportions and shapes on you!!

  5. Perfect for the Christmas parades held in small town KS the Saturday night after Christmas! You will get many inquiries about where you got your coat. The ladies will be pea green with jealousy! I am. If I see you on a KS street I will stop & tell you I’m a fan. I can wish can’t I? LOVE your blog. I understand the “instructions” on pattern pcs. I have the same issue. Can’t wait for the next piece you whip up”

    1. Thanks Sharon! And Christmas parades sound so lovely! I’ll be sure to keep an eye out for them AND wear my coat so that if you see me you will recognise me and say Hi πŸ˜‰

  6. There is something very old style hollywood glamour about this coat. I just adore it. You never cease to amaze me with your clever mixing and matching placement.

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