Vintage Vogue 2265 // The Coat

Have you ever had a project that turned out exactly as you’d hoped for, perhaps even a little better. This coat was that for me. I felt like it took forever to sew, but that was mainly because I put it on hold over the holidays to prioritise the Christmas sewing that I hadn’t really intended on doing in the first place.

19

13

16

9

I used a vintage Vogue pattern and the main modifications I made were to do with fit. I lengthened the bodice, skirt and arms. I also made a SBA and graded the waist and bodice side seams in quite a bit. My shoulders and waist differ by about two standard sizes, which makes buying garments like this near impossible. And then my height and arm length usually throws things off further. But I’m so happy to report that I nailed the fit! It’s probably my first classically cut coat or jacket that fits my shoulders, bust, arms, and waist as it should, and all at the same time.

12

I employed traditional tailoring methods to make this coat, helped out by my trusty Singer book on Tailoring. I block fused everything bar the sleeves with a fusible interfacing. This step took the place of the underlining that was called for in the vintage pattern.

I then hand stitched  most of the remaining hair canvas and twill tape down. I also stitched the lining in by hand. I know it’s possible to bag a coat out using the machine, but I’m terribly biased when it comes to hand-stitching linings for coats and jackets, or any other very special project for that matter. I figure that for the time it takes to pad stitch collars and lapels (which I prefer over machine stitching) it’s worth the little extra effort to attach the lining by hand too.

As a side note, I also feel like I need to mention shoulder pads here. They weren’t called for in the pattern, but in any coat, jacket, or blazer they are an absolute necessity. Mine are slim/medium sized ones that don’t add any bulk to my coat. But they do add structure to the shoulders and give the garment a professional finish. Never skip the shoulder pads (and this is coming from somebody with broad shoulders, an asset I always look to disguise rather than exaggerate in clothes).

The outer fabric is a wool coating. The off white portion is finely woven wool with a smooth texture and very subtle shimmer. Black wool tufts are woven through it in a rustic herringbone pattern. It was way more beautiful than I expected when it arrived on my doorstep so I may have ordered a little more to stash away for the future. The black twill weave lining is acetate. It has the most glorious oily black gloss to it in real life but was a horror to cut in the dry, static winter air of our house right now. I had to literally peel it off the cutting mat.

20

Because of the texture of the wool coating, I felt that bound buttonholes would be unsuitable. I would have liked to do the buttonholes by hand but my skill level needs to improve a bit on that front first. I tested the fabric with some machine buttonholes and my Pfaff pulled through very nicely. The buttonholes are lost in the busy fabric, so I’m not too worried that they weren’t couture. I covered buttons to use for the front and the sleeve vents. I also positioned small buttons on the front coat facing to stitch through when I attached the outer buttons. I’ve seen this a lot in RTW coats. It makes the inside of the coat look pretty, and it reduces the strain on the coat fabric.

And if you’re wondering where my inspiration came from for this coat, it was none other than Anna Wintour herself. I considered making a belt to go with my coat too, and may still do so oneday. But right now, I’m perfectly happy with it as it is.

2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

46 thoughts on “Vintage Vogue 2265 // The Coat

  1. It’s a thing of beauty! I tried coatmaking this winter, I think I succeeded but will try more tailoring techniques next time for sure!

  2. Gorgeous coat and the fit is perfect. It looks as though Burberry made it for you :). I’m getting ready to make a coat myself and yours is a stunning example that inspires me. Well done!

  3. This is so SO glorious!! What an accomplishment! The fit is absolute perfection – you look like a model! And I adore the fabric. This is a truly stunning piece that you’ll pull out year after year!

  4. Pingback:Wednesday Weekly #20 | Helen's ClosetHelen's Closet

  5. Absolutely stunning! The fit is spot on! Interesting about shoulder pads. I have an aversion to anything shoulder padded due to bad memories from the 80s so I thought I would skip them on an upcoming coat project, but now that you’ve put it like that I think I’ll use them!

    1. Thanks Kate! You should check out @sewbrooke on IG. You’ll have to scroll down a bit, but she posted a fantastic picture when she was in the middle of making her green coat recently. It was a photo comparing with-shoulder-pads to without-shoulder-pads. Her coat is a raglan style so different shaped shoulder pads were needed, but it was a great illustration/visual of how they work (ie not supposed to add bulk – just shape). I’ll look forward to seeing your coat!

  6. Pingback:DIY draped cardi wrap

  7. Pingback:Birds Of A Kettle | Winter coat, part uno

  8. Debbie, I really have nothing to add. It’s simply the most beautiful coat. I really wish I had the patience and will to learn new skills required to make something as special as this. It really is a coat forever – classic, chic, jaw-dropping xxxx

  9. I loved this on Instagram and so glad that I followed Heather’s link over to see you modeling the finished version. Absolutely beautiful! What a wonderful job you did on this!

  10. Perfect fit! I know the frustration of never finding sleeves or bodices on anything long enough. This is so flattering. The style you chose highlights that fantastic wool to its finest. Did you get it from Mood? I would love to make a winter coat, but living in Dallas (formerly Prairie Village, KS), I only need one for about a month now, so I tend to sew other things, like maybe your winter wrap pattern! Thank you again for sharing all your sewing projects with us. I love reading your blog.

    1. Thank you so much Amy! And yes, I did get it from Mood. It’s such a pretty fabric and was very easy to work with too. We would have been neighbours. Technically, I’m in Leawood, but right on the edge near Prairie Village. It’s a pretty area in it’s own right, but totally awesome for local estate sales, and I’m making the most of them before I lose my few free hours a week ;-). I went to a gorgeous house at Mission Hills the other day and came home with an amazing beaded flapper dress and a couple of beautiful clutches. Although mostly, I’m never at the sales early enough to find good clothes, but sewing paraphernalia is different – I don’t think as many people are on the hunt for stuff like that.

  11. I love everything about this coat! The material is just lovely and the way you put the pattern together is so flattering to you and the pattern. Gorgeous – it inspires to put coats on my sewing list for sure 🙂

  12. Pingback:Zippered faux leather skinnies

Comments are closed.