Grainline Archer // vintage sheet shirt

So, I loved Miss Seven’s vintage sheet shirt so much that I just had to make my own. Here it is.

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My Grainline Archer has been modified to accommodate my standard broad back/long arm/height requirements. I also added a classic, tailored sleeve placket, and two fish eye darts in the back.

 

 

 

A Grainline Archer

Sometimes I sew things just to elicit a reaction. This shirt is one of those things. As much as I really do love the style, and the way this shirt has turned out, I don’t work in a job that requires corporate dressing, so it’s likely to sit unworn in my wardrobe for the time being. Thankfully, it’s not a style that will ever go out of fashion.

I made it using the leftover fabric from husband’s birthday business shirt (which is coming up this week, and so yet to be blogged). He chose the fabric himself on a work trip to New York several months ago. I’m still not sure why he came home with so much of it when I gave him a very specific length to purchase. I suspect he made a few yard to meter conversions back and forth and somehow ended up with about 4.5 yds. I also suspect he was hoping that I’d make him two shirts. Well, the length didn’t quite stretch to two man-size shirts, but it was the perfect yardage for one man shirt and a little lady one to match.

I should probably also talk a little about the pattern. It’s a Grainline Archer, if you haven’t already guessed. It’s also the first time that I’ve sewn this pattern. I know I should have done a muslin first, but I entered into this project hoping for an easy sew, as a break after several intensive, brian squeezing makes that I’ve only just recently finished (my Dior jacket, Pilotti-ish jacket, denim skirt, challenge dress yet to be revealed).

I‘ve sewn so many shirts over the past few years that I have, through the trial and error of following different patterns, discovered my favourite ways to do collars, cuffs and the like. It just so happens that this pattern instructs on those exact ways. The only thing I wasn’t completely sold on was the cuff placket. Even so, I think it works very well for this shirt, and has a nice faux French cuff look to it.



This fit is not too bad on me, especially for a first go at this pattern. When the shirt was halfway complete, I had the feeling that it would be unbearably tight across the shoulders and too small to wear. My problem is that my bust measure correlates very well to the 35″ but my shoulders then broaden a lot above that measurement. I know this. It’s something I’ve encountered in shirt patterns and RTW for the past twenty years so it’s quite remarkable that I didn’t think to adjust for it beforehand. Next time, I definitely need to widen the shoulder seams and perhaps the change the front armscye shape a little, but with the buttons undone, it’s still a very comfortable and passable shirt. 

The main modifications I made were my standard ones of lengthening the arms and the torso by 1″. I also ditched the back pleat in version A and flicked the grainline around for a more traditional crossways stripe on the yoke.