Black overalls for Fall

I may have jumped the gun a little with this make, but I know I will get a LOT of wear out of these overalls in a few months time when the weather eventually cools. My plan is to wear them with crisp, collared shirts, and my plethora of off-the-shoulder tops. But in the meantime, there might be the odd occasion that I could wear them sans layers.

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I didn’t follow a complete pattern for this make. I slightly narrowed the pants from this playsuit, and then just modified this fitted bodice to a new shape. Having already sewn a few playsuits, I had a good idea of the bodice length I needed (which is one of the most important aspects of a playsuit in my opinion. Nobody wants a saggy butt, or to be cut in half!).

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The fabric I used is a very thick, crisp, cotton twill by Theory. It has a little bit of stretch like a cotton sateen and the good side has a soft, washed silk appearance and feel to it which makes the black appear more charcoal in colour. It’s a wonderful fabric that will be lovely and warm for Winter, but way too heavy for any other time of the year. I’ve purchased Theory branded fabric from Mood on several occasions now and the quality of this particular brand has always been exceptional.

Part of the reason why I got started on these overalls was because I stumbled across a buckle kit for sale at Hancocks before they closed down. I didn’t use the no-sew buttons though. I had a couple of deep shank metal buttons in my stash that I liked so much better.

At this point, I’ve only basted the hem in place. I just can’t decide how long or short I want the pants! I’m very tempted to crop them a little bit more for Fall, but with a deep hem that I can lengthen again in the future.

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Linen romper

So this wasn’t a complete fail, but I really don’t love it. I tried so hard to make it work, but still, all I’m feeling is meh…

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It’s not a complete loss though. The linen was salvaged from old makes and small remnants that I had lying around. It was incredibly satisfying to clear my scrap pile of all the lovely linens (which are too beautiful to throw away, but too small to make anything worthwhile with). If you look closely, the front and back of the shorts are actually two different blues… this make was scrapbusting at it’s finest!

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The colour-blocking was determined by the scraps I had on hand. The shorts are based on the Carolyn Pyjama pattern. I lengthened the crotch rise (front and back) by 1.5 inches in order to raise the waistline and make them suitable for a romper design.

The top half was designed by me. It’s very basic. I chickened out of the front-tie design I originally had planned. I liked the look better but the deep, deep neckline would have rendered it for beach-wear only. As it is, I may not love this make, but it will still be a practical wardrobe addition for Summer.

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The last refashion

This fabric really has been around the block. It started as a dress. Then I turned it into a playsuit. And now I’ve shortened the legs again. Shortening the legs is hardly deserving of the word “refashion”. However, there’s are reason I’m showing you this.¬†It’s amazing how¬†significantly different a garment can look, after such a minor change.

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I didn’t mind the previous versions, but none of them were quite right. I’m so glad I persevered.

Shop the Look

6 Shore Road by Pooja // Aqua // Banana Republic

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Culottes in a playsuit anyone?

This little jumpsuit was refashioned from this dress. As pretty as the dress was, I found I wasn’t wearing it enough. I hate to see such stunning fabric locked away behind closet doors.

 

The pattern is my own design and the jumpsuit very closely follows the drafted pattern. The main difference is my slightly angled bottom panels. In trying to preserve as much of the dress as possible, I didn’t manage to align the hem very well. I also didn’t have much of a choice on pattern placement. It appears that I may have inadvertently positioned a solar system directly over my reproductive organs. Why is it that Bruno Mars and the case of the uterine foliage pops into my brain right now?!  

 

The main fabric is a gloriously drapey, woven viscose. It is a very special fabric. The bottom panels were made using silk jersey scraps I was lucky enough to have lying around. Navy CDC or silk organza were other options I toyed with for the panels.

This playsuit is designed to be unfitted through the waist, with a slightly flared, cropped leg. There is also the option of ditching the bottom panel for a shorter version and using a self-fabric waist tie to cinch in the waist for a more fitted look. I’d really love to see how this pattern plays out in linen, or especially, a heavier weight and more structured cotton sateen.

 

This playsuit ticks a lot of boxes for me in terms of real life wearability. It’s cool for Summer, unrestrictive, and practical for chasing kids around in. So what do you think of playsuits right now? Could you see yourself in something like this?

A whole lot of squiggles in a playsuit

Those of you who follow me on Instagram might be under the impression that I’m a little bit besotted by wide leg pants. You’ve probably seen the pink pair of fancy pants that I made a few months ago. Well the obsession is far from over. 

  
 
 
  

This time, I’ve managed to create something that incorporates two of my favourite things: playsuits and wide leg pants, oh and we could also count squiggles. Mr Squiggle is, after all, one of my all time favourite shows.

 

The fabric I used is a gloriously sturdy cotton with a tiny bit of stretch. I’m so in love with those squiggles. I think they are perfectly suited to a playsuit and if they hadn’t sold out in a fraction of a second, I’m pretty sure I’d be heading back for seconds.


The pattern is self-drafted and I’m very happy with the way it fits. The pants rock, but the bodice still needs a little work. I’m also pretty miffed with myself for not thinking of stay-stitching/applying fusible tape to the neckline and back of the pants. Sometimes I get a bit overexcited when I’m working on a new pattern and my brain stops working for a bit. Thankfully, those parts didn’t stretch out too badly during construction. They just aren’t perfect.

Silk jumpsuit: a vintage pattern mash up

I originally wanted to make a dress out of the lovely silk twill you see in the photos (this exact dress and pant set in fact). Silk twill is actually very similar to CDC but ever so slightly heavier. It drapes and feels much the same, but is basically just less see-through in my opinion. And this makes it perfectly suited to a jumpsuit.

I know there are heaps of totally fabulous jumpsuits doing the rounds right now in blogland. I’ve also made a few myself in the past year (here and here).

 


My version is a mash up of two vintage patterns: McCall’s 6429 and Style 3304. I’ve used Style 3304 in the past (here and here), so I took the bottom half of this pattern and connected it with the top half of McCall’s 6429. The silk is Oscar de la Renta. I’m obviously partial to a bit of Oscar, since he features quite well in my stash. The top is fastened with two black glass buttons.


I also made a few other modifications:

  • I shortened the crotch in the pants
  • lengthened the bodice in the bodice portion
  • lengthened the View B sleeves but kept them wide
  • ditched the back seam and cut it on the fold instead (cheater broad back adjustment)
  • adjusted the facing pieces to accommodate the back change
  • I also added a thin waistband to create a casing for the elastic (but only because I didn’t lengthen the bodice enough in the first place!) 
  • Initially, I made the jumpsuit complete with the full collar you see on the pattern packet (instagram photo here) but it just didn’t look right when I tried it on. The look was too silk-pyjama-esque. I fixed this by unpicking the collar and leaving the facing intact. I  toyed with creating a V-neck but I liked the little lapels better.

Anyway, to sum it up, I’m pretty happy with this make. It was a bit random and I’m not entirely sure how hubby will take it. I think I’m just going to have to book a date night and surprise him (or ply him with spirits if I have to). Because seriously, these pants are made for dancing!

 

The big SIX Salme birthday jumpsuit

This year, my big girl celebrated her birthday in Spring. It probably didn’t mean a great deal to her. Spring in Kansas is still a LOT colder than a Sydney Autumn. But despite this, I still took it as a great excuse to make her something summery to wear for the days ahead. We may have had a little glitch in our Spring a few days ago (snow!) but the sunshine returned on her big day, which gave us the perfect photo opportunity. I should also point out that I don’t have a great say in her styling. Just check out those fuschia sandals and headpiece!

I’ve made this sweet little Salme Kimono jumpsuit before. Last summer, I stitched it up in some gorgeous Liberty print for Coco. I loved it on her and surprisingly, I think she loved it just as much. The simple style of this jumpsuit is perfectly matched to a pretty and lightweight Liberty cotton. I know it must have been a favourite, because I saw myself hanging it on the clothes line every second day!


It was such a perfect fit on Miss Six last year that I knew I’d be making another for her very soon. I passed her old version on to Miss Four in the slim hope that it will be loved as much….but I have serious doubts that Lady Ballerina Tutu will give it a second glance in her wardrobe.

For this version, I lengthened it to size 9 (the largest size) but graded both the bodice and the shorts width down to an 8. I was generous in my estimation for her, because I didn’t want her to outgrow this one as quickly as she did the last one. You can see that the fit is roomy, but not overly so. The torso length was the part that Miss Six outgrew first, although it is worth mentioning that she is currently on the 90th centile for height. So if you are using this information to choose a size, Coco’s height is roughly equivalent to that of an average seven year old, but she still quite lean. I would suggest going up one size for age in this pattern.

I used some beautiful cotton from Tessuti Fabrics. I purchased it months ago, specifically with Coco in mind. Her ONLY favourite colour back then was red, and this lovely Liberty-like fabric just grabbed me. I can’t remember it’s origin. It might be Japanese…but it feels and behaves a lot like the tana lawn that is used for Liberty of London (but without the same price tag!).

So on that note, I would like to wish my one and only big girl with the amazing curls, a very happy SIX birthday. We all love you to bits! x