Silk jumpsuit: a vintage pattern mash up

I originally wanted to make a dress out of the lovely silk twill you see in the photos (this exact dress and pant set in fact). Silk twill is actually very similar to CDC but ever so slightly heavier. It drapes and feels much the same, but is basically just less see-through in my opinion. And this makes it perfectly suited to a jumpsuit.

I know there are heaps of totally fabulous jumpsuits doing the rounds right now in blogland. I’ve also made a few myself in the past year (here and here).

 


My version is a mash up of two vintage patterns: McCall’s 6429 and Style 3304. I’ve used Style 3304 in the past (here and here), so I took the bottom half of this pattern and connected it with the top half of McCall’s 6429. The silk is Oscar de la Renta. I’m obviously partial to a bit of Oscar, since he features quite well in my stash. The top is fastened with two black glass buttons.


I also made a few other modifications:

  • I shortened the crotch in the pants
  • lengthened the bodice in the bodice portion
  • lengthened the View B sleeves but kept them wide
  • ditched the back seam and cut it on the fold instead (cheater broad back adjustment)
  • adjusted the facing pieces to accommodate the back change
  • I also added a thin waistband to create a casing for the elastic (but only because I didn’t lengthen the bodice enough in the first place!) 
  • Initially, I made the jumpsuit complete with the full collar you see on the pattern packet (instagram photo here) but it just didn’t look right when I tried it on. The look was too silk-pyjama-esque. I fixed this by unpicking the collar and leaving the facing intact. I  toyed with creating a V-neck but I liked the little lapels better.

Anyway, to sum it up, I’m pretty happy with this make. It was a bit random and I’m not entirely sure how hubby will take it. I think I’m just going to have to book a date night and surprise him (or ply him with spirits if I have to). Because seriously, these pants are made for dancing!

 

Style 3304: a playsuit in white

I’ve made this pattern before. It’s a vintage one, Style 3304. Last time, I modified it to a short version (long story!) in some fun Marc Jacobs fabric. This time, I was dreaming of white.

 
  

The pattern itself is simple enough to make, but not particularly well fitting without a few adjustments. I learnt this from my last make. The changes I made this time were:
– adding elastic in casing in the top back of the bodice for a better fit
– lengthening the bodice by 0.5″
– widening the legs towards the bottom by about 2″ and adding elastic to the hems
– I also converted the straps to adjustable
– you’ll notice I didn’t bother serging the edge of the facing. I used fusible interfacing on my facing (I always do, even though instructions rarely say to). The ponte doesn’t fray, but would be even less likely to do so once fused with facing, so to reduce bulk (and a possible seam line being seen) through my lightweight fabric, I chose not to finish the edge.

 

The fabric I used was a very lightweight ponte knit from Fabric.com. It is the same fabric I used for my Kanerva hack a while back. It shrinks a LOT after washing so I gave it a thoroughly mean pre-treatment before sewing. But it is a beautifully soft, creamy white and it is a truly lovely fabric to wear.

 
 

 

I’m pretty happy with my slouchy new jumpsuit. As always, I love the pockets, and it is just so comfortable that I suspect I will be dressing it down for the school run way more than I will be glamming it up.

Marc Jacobs playsuit vintage Style

It all started with an impulse purchase of some Marc Jacobs cotton knit, which was both gloriously soft and lightweight. I planned to make the playsuit in this vintage Style pattern.

 


I actually love everything about this playsuit, so the only modification I planned was to size it down a little and possibly lengthen the legs to keep them in proportion for my 5″10 frame.

The project didn’t get off to the best of starts. I prewash most of my fabrics, and thought it would be a good idea to do so this time too. Now, I am not sure if my memory fails me, but I am pretty sure I took home fabric that had a sharp white background covered in black, purple and blue flowers. In any case, I got a bit of a shock when I hung it up, as the background was now grey. I just didn’t love it anymore, not at all!

So my excitement dipped a bit as I commenced the cutting. For some reason, I thought it would be a good idea to cut my fabric late at night. I somehow managed to lay out my pattern pieces in such a manner that would leave me short of half a leg…genius! I could have slapped myself! So now I was not only short of fabric for my playsuit but I would inevitably be left with a significant remnant I no longer really liked, nor trusted to wash with my whites.

Problem solving mode kicked in and I shortened both legs to make a shortie style playsuit instead. It wasn’t exactly what I was after, but I figured at the very least, it would make some lovely pyjamas! Because although I wasn’t too fond of my grey-scale fabric, it still has the most delightfully soft hand.

I also decided to ditch the pockets because who needs pockets in their pyjamas anyway?! I regret skipping the pockets now because it didn’t turn out too bad after all. I am pretty sure I will use this pattern again, but I will aim to make the long leg version next time, and I would also put a thin band of elastic in the top of the back bodice piece instead of the button.