B5409: Hello yellow kimono jacket!

I’ve been inspired by a few ladies (here and here) on instagram recently. We live in worlds apart and adhere to vastly different dress codes, but I can’t help but admire how these ladies who choose to cover their hair and dress conservatively can look so individual, classically elegant, and fashionable, all the while having to adhere to much stricter fashion rules than I.

One of the things I’ve noticed, is that these ladies know how to layer. And perhaps it is the ability to drape and layer with aplomb, that has drawn my interest more than anything else. And perhaps because of them, I am a little in love with fluid, unfitted, kimono jackets right now. Yes, I’m also smitten with white, and yellow, and big, long dramatic hems…and no doubt there will be another whim to enter my world of fanaticism next week. But today, it is the kimono.

 

I would like to introduce you to my buttercup yellow kimono jacket. I love her! She is made from a beautiful, drapey, matt rayon jersey from MOOD. I cannot tell you how many yellow swatches I ordered before I settled on this one. And I did have to settle, since a remarkably more expensive 4-ply silk crepe de chine was my first choice! The jacket is a LOT heavier than it would be, had I sewn it in crepe de chine. It hangs and drapes fluidly, rather than floats. I’ve paired it with my fancy pant Ralphy tracky dacks and bad hair courtesy of night parties with two of my peeps.

 

 
 

The pattern I started from is B5409. The ghastly pictures on the pattern cover give no indication of what can be done with this pattern. I purchased it in the larger size because I’d originally intended on sewing it in a woven, despite the pattern calling for a knit. Usually, I would sew a size down from the one I chose.

The size I started with was a large (bust 38-40″). I’m about a 35″ in the bust. I made the following changes:

  • graded down a size from the armpits to the hem (I had to draw my own lines to do this as the pattern didn’t include the size below)
  • added inseam pockets. I just guessed the position of these and stuck them about 3″ too low in the side seams. I didn’t take into account how far down the jacket would hang due to the weight of the fabric and the low armscye
  • added belt loops in the side seams (just above the pockets). Again, these are also too low, although I don’t think I will be using them anyway. I was only intending to tie a belt through the back of the jacket, not around the front, and I don’t think it needs this after all.
  • ditched the collar and drafted the missing bit of facing. Because of the floppy nature of the fabric, even with interfacing, I stitched all the facing down, from neck to toe.
  • sewed the cuffs on the opposite way so that I could fold them up. Tacked them in place.
  • lengthened the front and back significantly and created a graduated hemline.
 

I’m really pleased with how it turned out. I will definitely be sewing this jacket again. Next time though, I will skip the belt loops and bring the pockets up a bit higher. I’m thinking I might put in a fabric order for my upcoming birthday to make this in a bright and boisterous printed crepe de chine. What do you think?




13 thoughts on “B5409: Hello yellow kimono jacket!

  1. Kirsty

    I agree that it is such a stylish silhouette and one that suits you! Oh yes, you must make it up in a printed crepe de chine for your birthday.
    What is that top underneath with the long hem? It too looks lovely!
    P.S. When are mood going to make you a mood sewing network blogger!

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  2. SewJillian

    That yellow is fabulous and the kimono fantastic. Well done! I always admire how you are willing and committed to working with a pattern, seeing how it might evolve and then bringing it forth into creation. It's so great. I tend to look for the easiest option as anything else exhausts my tired brain. I've been reading by the way but missing commenting! Congrats on the girls dress pattern, I look forward to knocking one up for M.

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  3. Sara

    This is spectacular! Perfect shade of yellow! A bold, solid color like this gives it such a different vibe from all the printed kimonos.

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  4. Debbie Iles

    Thanks Kirsty! Let you know about the top soon…it was the easiest make ever, just a gorgeous fabric find. And you make me chuckle with your last comment…I would love to do that! It's my secret ambition! But I do find mood such an easy online shop with their fabric descriptions, prices and swatches – there are no shops I can actually visit in the Midwest so online is my only option! I miss touching fabrics! I'm trying to make the most of my sewing time before my working visa arrives and I have to go look for other things to do with my time ;-).

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  5. Debbie Iles

    Oh thank you! I understand a tired brain. My brain gets bursts of energy but it is tired now too, so I'm recharging it with some nightie dresses for my girls made with scraps so no thinking involved and no danger of mucking them up. I love this kind of sewing sometimes!

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  6. Debbie Iles

    Thanks Sara! I'm just loving a bit of bright yellow right now. The colour was another reason why I chose the rayon. Who knew there are so many million shades of yellow out there. It was hard to find the right shade in the right fabric!

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  7. sallie oleta barbee

    This is such a cool look! I love the color on you, and paired with your track pants its the perfect combination of modern slouchy elegance! I'd love to see how different this could look in a silk cdc – but I really do love the weighty drape the jersey gives.

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  8. sewamysew.com

    This is so totally gorgeous! I've recently fallen in love with rayon jersey it's so lovely. I can't believe how ugly the pattern cover images are!!! We have to work so hard to see past them and image the pattern looking half decent. Can't wait to see your silky birthday version.

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