Silk jumpsuit: a vintage pattern mash up

I originally wanted to make a dress out of the lovely silk twill you see in the photos (this exact dress and pant set in fact). Silk twill is actually very similar to CDC but ever so slightly heavier. It drapes and feels much the same, but is basically just less see-through in my opinion. And this makes it perfectly suited to a jumpsuit.

I know there are heaps of totally fabulous jumpsuits doing the rounds right now in blogland. I’ve also made a few myself in the past year (here and here).


My version is a mash up of two vintage patterns: McCall’s 6429 and Style 3304. I’ve used Style 3304 in the past (here and here), so I took the bottom half of this pattern and connected it with the top half of McCall’s 6429. The silk is Oscar de la Renta. I’m obviously partial to a bit of Oscar, since he features quite well in my stash. The top is fastened with two black glass buttons.

I also made a few other modifications:

  • I shortened the crotch in the pants
  • lengthened the bodice in the bodice portion
  • lengthened the View B sleeves but kept them wide
  • ditched the back seam and cut it on the fold instead (cheater broad back adjustment)
  • adjusted the facing pieces to accommodate the back change
  • I also added a thin waistband to create a casing for the elastic (but only because I didn’t lengthen the bodice enough in the first place!) 
  • Initially, I made the jumpsuit complete with the full collar you see on the pattern packet (instagram photo here) but it just didn’t look right when I tried it on. The look was too silk-pyjama-esque. I fixed this by unpicking the collar and leaving the facing intact. I  toyed with creating a V-neck but I liked the little lapels better.

Anyway, to sum it up, I’m pretty happy with this make. It was a bit random and I’m not entirely sure how hubby will take it. I think I’m just going to have to book a date night and surprise him (or ply him with spirits if I have to). Because seriously, these pants are made for dancing!


13 thoughts on “Silk jumpsuit: a vintage pattern mash up

  1. SewJillian

    That silk is divine! I need to ask was it hard to work with or any words of advice? I've got a gorgeous silk twill from The Fabric Store I was planning to make into the sleeveless Roxanne, but am now considering using it for the gathered version of the Alder shirtdress, but I am having silk fear. Can you set my mind at ease?


  2. Debbie Iles

    Silk isn't that difficult to sew with at all Jillian. Don't be scared! I always use a rotary cutter, and mark darts etc before I move the fabric – only because silk can morph all over the place once you move it. You can use pins for silk twill, no problem. Make sure your machine needle is sharp and new. I also 'feed' my silk fabric through – ie hold it lightly taught between both sides of the needle as I sew (even with an Pfaff IDT!) so you don't get puckers along the seam- but then this isn't really any different to sewing with a lightweight voile. Seriously, you'll be great. An Alder shirtdress in silk twill will be stunning!



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